Post by Starry Eyes on May 6, 2012 10:41:09 GMT -5
Humbrol and Tamiya have some clear base paints that is very effective over chrome .. I've never tried shooting kandy over chrome .. I think you would need the briliance of a metallic silver or gold to reflect the light through your kandy (?) .. I use House of Kolor paints and use mostly Orion Silver or Gamma / Solar Gold for my base ... keep us posted !!
Post by modelcarfan on May 6, 2012 16:29:34 GMT -5
I have used chrome over with paint, Sometimes it did work, sometimes it didnt so.. i would suggest you take the sprue with chrome already plated and experiment it.. I usually take off the chrome and painted alclad and then paint the color over them. Because the alclad is a paint, not a plated chrome paint and is able to let the color paint stick over. Try this and see if it works on you. You can use a plastic spoon to experiment them.. putting alclad over the spoon and then color. Let me know how it goes.
I agree with the others ... they have all offered you very good input and advise. I've used Kandy Kolors (Krylon X-METALS ... Tamiya ... but NOT Lacquers) on chromed plastic parts ... such as tire rims. Good results. I've never used Humbrol (yet), so I don't know about them.
An adhesion-promotor might help, if it's fully compatable with the type of chrome-plating your specific parts employ. A surface test is suggested ... to see if the chroming isn't glazed, fogged, or etched by whatever you apply over it.
HOK & other Lacquers might attack the vacu-form mylar chrome coating found on most plastic chrome parts. I had found this out the hard way ... and I should've known better.
X-METALS (?) ... I haven't seen them in W-Mart any longer. But a YAHOO or GOOGLE search for them (and the rainbow of Tamiya colors) will reveal a few good suppliers for theose.
Nice thing about Tamiya 'Kandys' ... you can custom-blend those for specialized one-of-a-kind colors, quite easily. I,ve been able to do the same only with a few HOK Lacquers, and it requires more skill ... some of them just won't blend well.
Also ... when I wanted to create an'ICE PURPLE' and an 'ICE AQUA' to spray on mirror-polished or chromed diecast metal (or over HOK Snow White Pearl), I was guided to thin out the darker colors with Clear Top Coat to create the 'ICE' version of the color. I'm not sure if there are high-quality clear top- coats which would NOT attack plastic chromed parts.
Well it's taken about 7 months, but I'm finally giving this a try.
I'm using Bulldog adhesion promoter first. I gave it one light coat and was quite surprised with what happened, the chrome got brighter! I was expecting it to turn silver, melt, explode, cause the earth to move off it's axis, but no, it got brighter. ;D
A heavier second coat after 3 minutes ad I was looking for a color. I had some Pactra RC Candy Blue and after 5 minutes started spraying really light coats until I got a nice blue.
It looks great, just like the candy chrome Hot Wheels cars, I think they called them Spectraflame or something like that.
Of course my camera won't do it justice. I still have to clear it.
Proud Member of the Hooterville Lowriders Association.
What is kit "Chrome"? Not chrome. It is a very thin layer of aluminum (only few micrometers thick). The process is called vacuum-metalizing. FIst the bare plastic is sprayed with a high-gloss clear lacquer. Then the part is placed in a vacuum chamber where some aluminum is vaporized. The metal vapor deposits on the lacquered plastic creating a layer of very shiny aluminum which looks like chrome. However, that shiny metallic layer is very fragile. It can very easily gets scratched and will get damaged even by fingerprints. So, the metalized parts are given another coat of high-gloss clear lacquer to seal the metal. Or the final coat is clear yellow lacquer for a gold or brass finish.
As you can see, the "chromed" parts already have a layer of lacquer as the top coat. You can safely apply another coat of paint on them without need for a primer or adhesion promoters. The paint will stick very well. However when gluing "chromed" parts, you must scrape the metalization, because it acts as a barrier for solvent cements.
As I said, this is how the "chrome" is done on most plastic kits. The exception are some recent kits from Trumpeter and maybe some other Chinese-manufactured kits. In those, the chromed parts are actually electroplated with chrome (just like 1:1 scale car parts). Those kits are a pain to deal with as it is quite difficult to scrape the plating in order to glue the parts together. On those kits, you would probably need some sort of self-etching primer to get the paint to stick better to those chromed parts.
Post by tradeshowjoe on Aug 31, 2013 22:25:46 GMT -5
Engine looks great, stands up to handling too? Looks like a winner! I'll second the comment about the parts pack chrome, when I stripped mine off, the force of the spray from the Easy-Off washed it right off, no soaking! Haven't tried painting Chrome, as all my chrome is painted! I always strip and Allclad. Strip, All-Clad? Is that like "jumbo shrimp"? I digress. I have used Bulldog on other projects and never been let down. Never even considered it modeling.