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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2016 17:57:05 GMT -6
Hey all....Im not really a newbie, but I couldnt remember my old username, so I had to do a new registration...lol...Can anyone tell me an easy way to break an old glue seam without damaging the plastic?....Is there a safe solvent of any kind?....Thanks...
Matt
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Post by donculley on Jun 30, 2016 19:58:18 GMT -6
I've been told that if you put the model in the freezer for a while it will help to break the seams, but I personally have had no luck with that. The only other suggestion I have is to carefully score the seam with a sharp knife and keep scoring it until it comes apart. Tedious, yes, but it does work !
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Post by DVS on Jun 30, 2016 20:48:49 GMT -6
I've been told that if you put the model in the freezer for a while it will help to break the seams, but I personally have had no luck with that. I've heard the same thing but I have not tried it, Would like to hear what other people have tried that worked for them. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2016 23:08:41 GMT -6
Thanks for the help guys...Love the signature pic there, DVS
Matt
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Post by 41chevy on Jul 1, 2016 10:04:22 GMT -6
I've bought glue bombs and have soaked them in Easy Lift Off from Floqill and many tube glue seams come apart. The freezer trick works again on tube glue but 90% of the time not on liquid glue seams. Paul
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Post by Hemi on Jul 2, 2016 13:25:51 GMT -6
I heard (NEVER tried) but soaking the whole model in luke warm water helps glue joints soften. I use ELO too, and it ALWAYS works for getting seams to un-glue.
Paul, ELO (Easy-Lift-Off) WASN't a Floquil product, Floquils version was called "Dio-Sol" but, anyway is now part of the Testors line as Floquil was dropped from the Testors "line-Up" of paints! MOST know it by now, but Boyd, Floquil, Poly-S (Poly Scale), Pactra, were all bought out by Testors some time ago, and was part of the product line of Testors. However A LOT of the "Boyd" paints were made into the Testors "Model Masters" line-up, as well as the Floquil stuff, also now part of the Model Masters stuff, and then certain colors of the Poly S brand went into the Testors brand/type of Acrylic paints, and I THINK Pactra went into the "Standard" Line-up of Testors paints and some of all these old "Companies", was spread across the Testors entire product line....
The original "ELO" was a Poly Scale product!
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Post by 41chevy on Jul 2, 2016 17:00:53 GMT -6
I've sold it inn my store over the past 28 years under Testers , Poly S and with a Floquill labels in the cans and bottles. Even got it with a Walthers label on the bottles at one time.
Floquill, Poly S, Pactra and now most of the Aztec line have all been dropped over the past 4 years. Floquill Rail Road colors and Testers Naval colors are not even being converted to Acryl. Some of the Model Master and Model Master II are being phased out over the next year. Mainly started when Testers became division of the Rust-Oleum Group. Paul
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Post by scratchbuilt on Jul 3, 2016 19:28:54 GMT -6
Wow so much information on products I didn't know even existed. I've only ever got my trusty ultra thin surgical razor saw out and cut the joins. Talk about delicate and tedious work doing it that way.
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Post by colbart/colin on Jul 4, 2016 4:54:31 GMT -6
Hey all....Im not really a newbie, but I couldnt remember my old username, so I had to do a new registration...lol...Can anyone tell me an easy way to break an old glue seam without damaging the plastic?....Is there a safe solvent of any kind?....Thanks... Matt Depends on the glue used. The cement or liquid glue would 'weld' the pins or joints. Scoring the best way. Superglues will 'snap' apart, they don't weld. |
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Post by oldcarrestorer72 on Jul 5, 2016 11:36:01 GMT -6
Welllllll , I buy old built kits and I buy testors or any type of thinner and place the thinner with a paint brush where I want to detach the part!!! Has worked for me for 20 years!!! On some real brittle kits I have had parts like the axle / tire break , but I needed to replace anyway!!! So be careful if its an expensive or rare kit!! Start with small drops and it should loosen!! Thinner loosens anything!!!!!!!! ALOHA!!!!
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Post by oldcarrestorer72 on Jul 5, 2016 11:38:56 GMT -6
Oh ,,, I drop in water after the parts come loose so it wont melt the plastic , just a precaution ,its never happened to me _ but better safe than sorry and having to be p'd and throw the @#^**% thing against the wall and..... oh sorry ,need my meds!!!!
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Post by peteski on Jul 7, 2016 0:49:15 GMT -6
ELO (Easy-Lift-Off) WASN't a Floquil product, Floquils version was called "Dio-Sol" but, anyway is now part of the Testors line as Floquil was dropped from the Testors "line-Up" of paints! MOST know it by now, but Boyd, Floquil, Poly-S (Poly Scale), Pactra, were all bought out by Testors some time ago, and was part of the product line of Testors. However A LOT of the "Boyd" paints were made into the Testors "Model Masters" line-up, as well as the Floquil stuff, also now part of the Model Masters stuff, and then certain colors of the Poly S brand went into the Testors brand/type of Acrylic paints, and I THINK Pactra went into the "Standard" Line-up of Testors paints and some of all these old "Companies", was spread across the Testors entire product line.... The original "ELO" was a Poly Scale product! I feel that another clarification is in order. ELO is a paint stripper for models. It contains a chemical related to what is in DOT3 brake fluid. As it has been mentioned, it has been sold under several brands (latest is Testors). But originally Floquil and Polly-S (not even Polly Scale which is a differently formulated paint that came much later) were both made by the same company in Amsterdam, NY. Later on they got acquired by RPM. Eventually (since RPM also owns Testors), the paint lines were mostly merged and several lines of hobby paints were discontinued. So now ELO is sold under Testors (not Testers like someone here wrote) brand. www.testors.com/en/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/primers-top-coats-thinners-cleaners/paint-and-decal-removerDio-Sol is a thinner for Floquil paints and it was never sold as a paint stripper. There were 2 types - the original which was hot enough to melt polystyrene and the Rev. I version which was plastic-compatible. But I would be leery of using either one in fear that it will damage the plastic. I have never tried using ELO to weaken plastic glue bonds but I suppose it could work on a tube-type glue (especially if it was used to glue painted parts). But if the bond was made using liquid (solvent) cement and bare plastic then those joints are literally welded into a single piece of plastic so the only way to separate is by cutting them apart. |
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Post by Brandon on Jul 8, 2016 9:32:49 GMT -6
I have never tried using ELO to weaken plastic glue bonds but I suppose it could work on a tube-type glue (especially if it was used to glue painted parts). But if the bond was made using liquid (solvent) cement and bare plastic then those joints are literally welded into a single piece of plastic so the only way to separate is by cutting them apart. Agreed. I've had good luck with properly "welded" cement bonds by using a very sharp exact-o knives, my jewelers saw, careful prying with my favorite paring knife, and a bucket of patience.  Sometimes putting parts in the freezer will aid in their "snapping" apart if you work quickly while the plastic is still frozen and a little more brittle, but if it's really glued, normally you'll have to score or cut through the glue as the parts around a blob will simply break. Work slow and careful - that's my advice... and then sand the part halves to expose some fresh plastic not glazed over by glue slop for a good bond. |
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Post by rapidtransit on Jul 10, 2016 6:24:55 GMT -6
I use easy -off oven cleaner work grate!
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Post by rodsnracin on Oct 22, 2016 10:05:46 GMT -6
New guy here! The freezer trick works best if you submerge the model in water for a few hours, maybe add a couple drops of dish detergent. The water will penetrate the seams and even the small pores of tube glue. Then place the model in a REALLY cold freezer. It's the expansion of the water that pushes the seams apart. it works pretty well. I sometimes do this procedure a few times before I get everything apart. Liquid glue seams are the toughest, I do the scribe thing to at least weaken them. HTH!
Brian
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