|
|
Post by Paul B. Canney on Jan 24, 2020 7:59:40 GMT -6
Something to correct. Earlier somewhere, I had mentioned I was possibly going to add jacks and cables to what appeared to be banana jack plug ins on the front sides of the coach. Made sense to me. On the model they seem more diamond shape. Quite by accident I found a picture I could enlarge of the real McCoy...it appears to be a Barris escutcheon. George put his mark on his work, including the Batmobile -- though I think it was added years later. The photo's resolution doesn't permit decisive detail, but it looks to me almost like a Bentley crest not a guitar jack. Here's one of his crests....
Darn. My apologies. Oh well, win some lose more.
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Jan 29, 2020 17:58:49 GMT -6
Moving forward -- all pun intended, it's time to take care of the grille so the front piece can be painted. Earlier, I filed out the solid backs for the openings so as to add my own mesh. The procedure is much the same as the gold vinyl on the coach.
First, a piece of painters tape was applied to a piece of flat styrene. This way the tape is supported against the nose opening (...nostril? Sorry.) Using a sharp pencil, trace the outline on the tape.
This is what results, 'dri' and 'pass' is pencilled in to prevent mixups
Holding the tape up to the light, a piece of mesh is pressed to the sticky side and applied so it fully covers the outline seen thru the tape..
Cut with scissors following the pencilled outline on the other side. Using my own scissors keeps peace in the family. Here are the two separate grille inserts with their respective dri/pass id's.
...and how hopefully the finished piece(s) will fit after the hood piece is sprayed red. A small dot of ca glue will keep them in place.
Comments and observations welcome. |
|
|
|
Post by 41chevy on Jan 30, 2020 12:33:52 GMT -6
Great tip on the mesh. I will be using that on a few projects! Paul
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 7, 2020 21:28:41 GMT -6
Mock up. The front cowl is airbrushed in a flat cherry red with a drop of....pink. yes, pink. just enough so its not red and not too loud for the coach imho. A wet sand and a gloss and life wil be good. 
engines will be basic red. 
Comments and observations welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by Paul B. Canney on Feb 8, 2020 9:45:02 GMT -6
The only observation I have ( and honestly this is the 1st time I've noticed in over 40 years ) is the 4 speed transmissions. I wonder how one could shift this if not going dead on in a straight line. Then that got me wondering.. 'has the real 1:1 actually driven from point A to point B or was it more a semi-static thing for photo-ops and (then) video options?'
|
|
|
|
Post by rocketeer on Feb 8, 2020 11:04:36 GMT -6
I'm pretty sure the real thing has automatic transmissions. The kit has automatics, and there's no sign of a clutch pedal anywhere. And it'd be so much easier to build IRL if you used automatics. The four-speeds are just what came with the Tempest engines farmboy is using in place of the kit's completely inaccurate big-block Chevys.
And I think you're right; I suspect the Coach was just mobile enough for the occasional car show and photo shoot.
|
|
|
|
Post by 41chevy on Feb 8, 2020 11:10:45 GMT -6
It had GM TH425 trans axle drive cases from Caddy Eldorado and only one engine powered the drive axle, the other was just for noise.
|
|
|
|
Post by rocketeer on Feb 8, 2020 13:32:55 GMT -6
I have to disagree. Barris TV and Movie Cars (Barris & Fetherston) has two photos that clearly show conventional automatic transmissions, and describes a chain arrangement whereby either or both engines could run the car (My thought: probably a simple roller chain with sprockets on the differential and tranmission output shafts).
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 8, 2020 15:04:31 GMT -6
Yes, the units were automatics. Here's what they supply for a 2 to 1 transfer drive. I have no reason to doubt that what the kit has is fairly accurate to what the 1:1 actually had and that in all likelyhood both engines provided a share of motive power. I read somewhere that the driver had remarked it was a difficult beast to drive. Guess it was no grocery getter but it was mobile under it's own power.
Transmission wise, the shift linkage will be filed away and a kind of cover placed on the side where a cable(s) will enter. Maybe not totally accurate, but close enough for home cookin'. Sticks out like a sore thumb doesn't it? 
While on the topic of engines and such, I'm wondering about the two heater hoses. Did they actually perform a function other than busy up the engines? They both go under the pseudo injector 'hat'... but where to they connect? My guess is one to the forward side of the surge tank, one to the bottom of same? Any ideas anybody? Thanks for looking in by the way, 'preciate the observations and comments.
|
|
|
|
Post by rocketeer on Feb 8, 2020 21:38:49 GMT -6
I think there's one heater hose, which connects the two heater hose nipples on the engine: One heater nipple on the water pump, just above the big nipple the lower radiator hose connects to, and another heater nipple at the back of the intake manifold, on the passenger side (according to a friend who really knows his Pontiacs). In this picture, it looks like there are two heater hoses on the driver's-side engine, but I think you're just seeing a reflection of the single hose in the chromed steel plate brace that connects the inboard heads on the two engines.  |
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 8, 2020 21:53:58 GMT -6
Will post a pic later, but what I did was sawed the tranny from the kit supplied chev automatic engines and the Pontiac 4 speed transmissions from the Catalina mills.. I kept the bell housing from the Pontiac engines. A little filing and scratch filler and life should good.
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 9, 2020 8:50:23 GMT -6
 Found it. After all this searching it popped up on a search I must have done a hundred times! Maybe because it's called a recirculation hose? May not be exactly what I was looking for but it satisfies me. This arrangement was pertinent on the big block pontiacs thru to the early 70's, though the exact location moved slightly over the years due to engine mods and improvements. Looking closely at the bw photo, you can actually see what I think is this hose on the drivers side engine right beside the upper rad hose. The other heater hose will go, as suggested, to the rear of the manifold. Big thanks to Rocketeer for info on the other hose.
|
|
|
|
Post by kabdriver on Feb 9, 2020 10:44:43 GMT -6
This thread has really given me a new appreciation for this kit - and the 1:1! I enjoyed seeing the frame and running gear in that pic Rocketeer posted above, especially!
Keep going Farmboy!
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 9, 2020 19:08:44 GMT -6
This is how the engine(s) looks with the automatic transmission adapted to it. Turned out ok.
Comments and observations welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by rocketeer on Feb 9, 2020 21:04:57 GMT -6
Do your Tempest engines have stock exhaust manifolds? I figure that's what Barris used, and I couldn't find any (I used Pontiacs from one of the Revell engine sets, which had headers, not stock manifolds). I was able to use a Mopar for one side, but had to scratchbuild the other side and resin-cast a copy.
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 10, 2020 4:22:23 GMT -6
Rocketeer, I've gone my own happy way on the exhaust manifolds. The Pontiac exhausts were a type of header so I've removed the pipes from the actual Chev manifold pieces, tweaked the manifolds to adjust to the exhaust ports on the Pontiac engines, and will be adding pipes from resin core solder from a more or less centered position on the manifolds. That's the plan but I'll adapt as needed.
|
|
|
|
Post by Paul B. Canney on Feb 10, 2020 9:21:21 GMT -6
This is how the engine(s) looks with the automatic transmission adapted to it. Turned out ok.
Comments and observations welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by rocketeer on Feb 10, 2020 10:39:25 GMT -6
... adding pipes from resin core solder... I strongly advise against this; the resin will emerge years later, corrode, and look terrible (see the brown crusty stuff on the exhausts in the pics of my Coach). Right offhand, I don't remember whether I used acid-core or resin-core for those pipes, but why take a chance? I'd use solid core solder if I were you.  |
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 10, 2020 10:55:47 GMT -6
Thanx for the good words Paul!
Rocketeer I believe that to be acid core but point taken. Thanx.
|
|
|
|
Post by Paul B. Canney on Feb 11, 2020 3:34:53 GMT -6
... adding pipes from resin core solder... I strongly advise against this; the resin will emerge years later, corrode, and look terrible (see the brown crusty stuff on the exhausts in the pics of my Coach). Right offhand, I don't remember whether I used acid-core or resin-core for those pipes, but why take a chance? I'd use solid core solder if I were you. |
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 14, 2020 19:32:02 GMT -6
Here's the last mockup before engine work. 
Worth mentioning is the paint. This photo was taken about 24 hours ago and up close, wrinkles in the clearcoat are visible. Looks like the enamel red and the clear don't agree. Cracks appeared hours after this photo. It hasn't gotten worse so I've sanded back down to smooth and reapplied the red. It's currently on my paint stand drying. I'll let it cure for 24 hours before sealing it with Future. Maybe I cleared before the paint gassed fully? We'll see. Engine wise, next up besides the mess o' parts in the photo is a black wash for the engines and then work on the exhausts. I'll be adjusting the manifolds and their flanges to fit nicely between the engines. then wiring, cooling and making my own belts. Comments and observations welcome.
Comments and observations welcome. |
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 16, 2020 16:12:44 GMT -6
On to the exhausts....most of the pics were taken before the engines were painted. The manifolds are very rough right now but will be smoothed out to fit.
The above shot is of the Chev manifolds. I've modified the left one to have the exhaust pipe more centered. In retrospect I should have probably left it like the one on the right. Oh well.
This is the issue with those manifolds fitting on the Pontiac engines. Not wide enough. So, as seen above, I cut them apart so the stretch can be done.
A small block of styrene was filed to thickness to make things fit. They will be shaped to harmonize with the curvature of the manifold.
So here are the manifolds adjusted to width and the accompanying exhaust pipes.
The next post will show how I'm going to try to make the inside exhaust pipes.\ Comments and observations welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 16, 2020 16:50:42 GMT -6
The part that had me worried the most was how to get the long exhaust pipes from between the engines out and around...and then the light came on. Studying a particular photo shows the pipes had a sleeve joining the two sections of pipe placed immediately after the manifold.
Here you see the widened manifold, and below that the pipe previously cut away from it. I narrowed the flange and made it concave with a file to better fit the manifold (I may still drill holes and insert a short pin for strength). Next in line is a dark piece of plastic tube cut to length that fits over the exhaust pipes perfectly. Thank you Tim Horton's for the stir stick!!! The last piece is a length of styrene tubing that will be bent to conform to the route around the engine and down the side. This example piece has a short section of wire inserted so it can be bent without collapsing.
And this is a loose interpretation of how it all connects. Now, there are still two water pump pipes to make. Accuracy dictates a black flexible hose usually done quite convincingly with a piece of wire wound around a piece of wire or plastic tube. I may yet go that route, but notice the blue piece in the photo. It has a ribbed texture, is somewhat flexible and already pre-drilled for a thin piece of wire. It's the barrel from an acupuncture needle. The needles are easily pulled out of the barrel leaving a useful rad hose, flex pipe...whatever you may need.
As for the cowl on the car, it was sanded, re painted and a coat of future applied. then, another light sanding and it was...back to the future(sorry). I'll do this a couple of more times and then shoot clearcoat.
comments and observations welcomed.
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 19, 2020 15:48:52 GMT -6
A couple of small updates
It's out of focus but
here's the cherry red and pink mix I used to represent a version of the 1:1 GTO Carousel Red. Guess the auto focus was acting like spell check on the cell. Oh well...
and a quick shot of the tractor unit,
and a couple of things to point out. Look between the engines and there sit the two manifolds and pipes. The engines are just there for photo purposes, but the manifolds are tacked in place on the blocks allowing me to build the exhaust to fit. The manifolds will snap free pretty easily for painting. The pipes are cut short enough for a sleeve to act as a joiner between them and the longer larger exhaust pipes. Also, though it will not be seen after assembly is the front suspension. The kit has a single shock -- or a blob representing two -- that was easy enough to replace with 2 separate shocks per the 1:1. I'm not sure if the spring was a single unit or duals so I left well enough alone. Comments and observations welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by rodsnracin on Feb 19, 2020 16:51:41 GMT -6
Man, you're making me want to build mine! Or, sell it and save myself a ton of work! Seriously, you are doing a VERY impressive job on this thing. You've set a really high bar!
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 20, 2020 15:53:37 GMT -6
Just an add to the last post on the exhaust. Given further thought, it struck me that leaving the pipes the way they're shown doesn't give me room for the hydraulics for steering. I've since removed them, reset the pipes, added the sleeves to join up to and sprayed things primer white. Just a bit of additional finesse and they should look ok
so now, the pair of power steering lines have room to run between the engines and connect to the steering cylinder. Hard to pick up in a photo, but if you look at the center of the steering axle, you'll find two super small beads representing hydraulic hookup on the cylinder. The lines will be phone wire painted flat black going from there, topside between the engines and follow the frame's spine to end up under the radiator covers to 'meet up' with the hydraulic lines from the carriage.
Comments and observations welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 24, 2020 12:11:23 GMT -6
Got time to wire the distributor on one engine. The longer wire going in to the engine front is the coil wire to be connected later. Also, this is a better view of the power steering lines, dual shock replacements and the end of one of the relocated exhaust pipes
|
|
|
|
Post by peteski on Feb 27, 2020 1:31:15 GMT -6
... adding pipes from resin core solder... I strongly advise against this; the resin will emerge years later, corrode, and look terrible (see the brown crusty stuff on the exhausts in the pics of my Coach). Right offhand, I don't remember whether I used acid-core or resin-core for those pipes, but why take a chance? I'd use solid core solder if I were you. Sounds like you had a problem with acid core. Acid is corrosive. Rosin flux is pretty inert, and it stays solid in room temperature. Of course with solid core solder there are no worries either way. |
|
|
|
Post by Paul B. Canney on Feb 27, 2020 4:43:02 GMT -6
I strongly advise against this; the resin will emerge years later, corrode, and look terrible (see the brown crusty stuff on the exhausts in the pics of my Coach). Right offhand, I don't remember whether I used acid-core or resin-core for those pipes, but why take a chance? I'd use solid core solder if I were you. Sounds like you had a problem with acid core. Acid is corrosive. Rosin flux is pretty inert, and it stays solid in room temperature. Of course with solid core solder there are no worries either way. |
|
|
|
Post by farmboy on Feb 28, 2020 20:32:39 GMT -6
Took a stab at doing the exhaust for the inner manifolds. Here's what was done. I used solder to bend out the exhaust path more or less. I then used an appropriate diameter of plastic tube, inserted a snug fitting piece of wire in the core, and bent to match the solder model constantly test fitting during the process. While the solder isn't a perfect pattern, it made things easier and cut down on handling the model as much. The black piece of stir stick (they'll be redone, longer and with a longer slash) will fit on the end of the shortened pipe so it can be slid to make a perfect fit just in front of the rear tire. Pipe white, slash tip chrome.
Here's a view of a pipe installed on the passenger side engine. It will run straight, its only hanging on right now. White on white but you can make it out.
and from the side.
The pan is forward but them's the breaks as I'm using the kit Chev dual oil pan mounting to fit on the Pontiac engines. Not a contest winner, but hopefully it'll be cluttered up enough so most won't notice. Comments and observations welcome.
|
|
