A question for the rivet counters. :D

[Brandon]

How do I make them?

I'm working on my Faster Buck, and some of the rivets will have to be replaced. What is the best way to do that?

My thoughts are white glue and a pin before paint... will that work?

[AL]

There is some talk of Rivets on this thread :

coffincorner.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=wip&action=display&thread=10160&page=2

-AL

[Brandon]

I saw that, but the Fast Buck rivets are the raised "bump" type that stick up.

[ira]

On an old project, I drilled holes & glued in straight pins & cut off the excess. Pins come in at least a few different sizes, for large or small rivets. This works pretty good...

[stilljustharley]

Check out Archers Transfers, they do rivet decal sheets! Seriously, the rivets are printed in 3D and you apply them like decals. Their weld decals are amazing too!

[showrodjohn]

Get an old wind up clock and use the sprockets in that. I filed them to a point then made a handle and just roll along a length of styrene. I wish I had a photo but I cannot find it last time I used it I was building model railway stuff.

[bozobutt]

Theres also rivet punches and spacing guides available as well, from hobby suppliers. Model aircraft builders use them all the time to enhance and/or create detail...

[robriley]

sand all of the rivits off and make it a smoothie.

[rocketeer]

The Archer transfers are great , but I think they're a little too small and closely spaced for the Fast Buck.

[flounder]

Hey Brandon,

I think you have two choices. If you want to replace a few rivets - and match what you have - then Ira has it right. Get the right size rod, round the end, drill the hole and glue it in.

If you want to replace them all or don't care so much about a precise match, then you can find the right size mechanical pencil and chisle the end of it. Use that as a punch to punh out riviets from some aluminum tape used on heater ducting. Just depress the lead enough to gently push out the aluminum dot you punnched out and stick it in place. I am not sure, but I think the softer the work surface, the higher the dome of the rivet. I havn't test this theory, but it sounds right.

So...Brandon is worried about detail..... Welcome to the dark side, young Jedi.

Flounder.

[Brandon]

Nov 11, 2009 22:30:05 GMT -6 flounder said:

So...Brandon is worried about detail..... Welcome to the dark side, young Jedi.

Flounder.

Let's not be too hasty, I think I have found a nice balance of creative sanding.... I was thinking about them, and the transfers, and my options, and to try and blend them with the ones already on the body would a one thing, but then to mess up the paint and have to do it over again... well that wouldn't be any fun.. I think I have figured out a solution I can live with. Thank you guys for all the suggestions. I hope to post pics soon, the chassis is done and the body is in the filler stage. Whose idea was it to stretch one of these, anyways?

Here's an older picture, I'm much farther along:

[barten]

I have no idea. . .but just know it will be cool when done! ! ! !
Hey hows tat junk box build coming? ;D

GB
Barten

[Brandon]

Nov 12, 2009 5:46:52 GMT -6 barten said:

I have no idea. . .but just know it will be cool when done! ! ! !
Hey hows tat junk box build coming? ;D

GB
Barten

With all that life has me doing at the moment, it'll be a while. I was trying to get the two stalled on the bench done for the NNL this weekend, I don't know if I'll make it.

[barten]

I know you will MAKE IT! ! ! ! ! Pull an all nighter! ! ! ! Sleep is over rated! ! ! ! ! !


I know what ever you build for the show! ! ! ! It will be a show stopper! ! ! ! (Even if it is an in-progress display)

Post pictures after this weekend!

Good luck!

GB
barten

[hobbybobby]

It would be a too long reply, here is the new thread:

coffincorner.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=11056

I hope it helps.