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Post by carl2404 on Mar 5, 2012 17:12:30 GMT -6
Anyone have some tips on shooting yellow? ive been going nutts and still not getting a good finish.. tried base grey primer, tried base white primer, using a tamiya laquer ( never had issues like this with these cans before ) it never lays even, end up getting dark spots and spots with light coveradge... after about 4 coats of yellow id assume this would have evened out by now, this will make the 3rd time the dragon wagon goes back too the pond..  any help appreciated! |
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Post by Paul B. Canney on Mar 5, 2012 17:33:10 GMT -6
usually with yellow, and orange I have to shoot up to 4 coats (air brush)
I tried an orange rattle can for my Orange Hauler and ended up plopping it in purple power and starting over
oops.. just revealed another build I'm nearing completion on
oh.. try silver between the primer and yellow
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Post by HIzoot on Mar 5, 2012 17:36:57 GMT -6
Sounds alot like surface contamination..!Hizoot 
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Post by Starry Eyes on Mar 5, 2012 17:47:03 GMT -6
Strip the body .. lightly wet sand with ultra-fine 6000 grit then wet sand with 8000 grit paper , a nice warm bath with a little dish soap, and air dry.. followed up with a good automotive lacquer primer sealer (or Plasti-cote), lightly wetsand with ultra fine 8000-12000 grit depending on your finish taste but do not burn through the primer...wash throughly again with dish soap and warm water ...air dry then a good lacquer or urethane yellow paint followed by a 4:1 automotive urethane clearcote all applied via airbrush ... ;D
(I can never get those cans to work for me either)
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Post by Paul B. Canney on Mar 5, 2012 17:53:47 GMT -6
Strip the body .. lightly wet sand with ultra-fine 6000 grit then wet sand with 8000 grit paper , a nice warm bath with a little dish soap, and air dry.. followed up with a good automotive lacquer primer sealer (or Plasti-cote), lightly wetsand with ultra fine 8000-12000 grit depending on your finish taste but do not burn through the primer...wash throughly again with dish soap and warm water ...air dry then a good lacquer or urethane yellow paint followed by a 4:1 automotive urethane clearcote all applied via airbrush ... ;D (I can never get those cans to work for me either) or... shoot it in blue My Orange Hauler came THIS CLOSE to being a Blueberry Hauler |
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Post by Paul B. Canney on Mar 5, 2012 17:54:32 GMT -6
Sounds alot like surface contamination..!Hizoot trust me.. this klown knows his stuff! |
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Post by robriley on Mar 5, 2012 18:46:14 GMT -6
always remember, surface prep is 80% of a good paint job.
I always use a base coat of silver whenever i paint orange or yellow because it seems to even the color out more than primer does.
I'm not paint expert, but i think primer will give you spotting with certain colors because primer will absorb some colors more than others. (I don't know, i'm just guessing).
since silver is a paint, not a primer, the color will lay on top of the silver rather than soak into the primer.
Just my thoughts, and I have never had a problem shooting yellow or orange over silver. It always comes out good for me.
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Post by ShowRodFreak Don V. on Mar 5, 2012 20:14:01 GMT -6
I used HOK spanish gold with a white primer base. 6 air brush coats. 2 coats of clear with a little tint of what was left over.  |
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Post by ShowRodFreak Don V. on Mar 5, 2012 20:17:45 GMT -6
Rattle cans, spray two coats and let dry for two days. wet sand with 800 and spray two coats let it dry for three days. Wet sand with 1000 and shot two more. Should cover nicely
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Post by Starry Eyes on Mar 5, 2012 20:18:24 GMT -6
I used HOK spanish gold with a white primer base. 6 air brush coats. 2 coats of clear with a little tint of what was left over. I'm suddenly craving a bowl of lemon ice cream ... |
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Post by ShowRodFreak Don V. on Mar 5, 2012 20:32:34 GMT -6
I used HOK spanish gold with a white primer base. 6 air brush coats. 2 coats of clear with a little tint of what was left over. I'm suddenly craving a bowl of lemon ice cream ... It has sprinkles too. ;D Gold sprinkles LOL |
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Post by carl2404 on Mar 5, 2012 21:07:34 GMT -6
Thanks for the tips, i figured it was just the grey bleeding through hence why i switched to a white primer..
im sticking with rattle cans at the moment since ive not yet got my skills down with a air brush..
im going to try using a silver base this time, maybe like rob said it has something too doo with the primer soaking it up..
im thinking its the pigment itself, never had issues with any other color then this.. here i go with round 3!
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Post by Starry Eyes on Mar 5, 2012 21:09:16 GMT -6
Thanks for the tips, i figured it was just the grey bleeding through hence why i switched to a white primer.. im sticking with rattle cans at the moment since ive not yet got my skills down with a air brush.. im going to try using a silver base this time, maybe like rob said it has something too doo with the primer soaking it up.. im thinking its the pigment itself, never had issues with any other color then this.. here i go with round 3! good luck !! ;D |
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Post by robriley on Mar 5, 2012 21:20:41 GMT -6
2 coats of plain old rattle can testors yellow enamel shot over a base coat of testors silver. followed by 2 coats of clear...no wetsanding, no buffing.   2 coats of plain old testors competition orange enamel shot over a base coat of silver, followed by 2 coats of clear. no wetsanding, no buffing.   |
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Post by carl2404 on Mar 5, 2012 21:32:28 GMT -6
yeah those look crisp!
must be the primer messing with the top coats..
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Post by scurvy on Mar 5, 2012 23:41:31 GMT -6
Tamiya yellow has always been a problem child, in my experience. My suggestion: shoot your primer, sand it smooth, then shoot some military flat desert yellow, or a similar yellow-tan as a base. Shoot the yellow dry (like hold the can 18-24 inches away and don't even try to get full coverage until the third or fourth coat) Let it shrink up for a couple of days, then shoot a wetter coat over the top. Color sand that if it needs it. If you shoot clear over it, shoot the first coat pretty dry. I've found Tamiya yellow likes to run off the high points, even after it's dried if the clear goes on too wet.
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Post by carl2404 on Mar 6, 2012 12:21:24 GMT -6
Ill check on my next trip to wal-mart or autozone later, see if i can find the yellow primer,
im going to do a test shoot with silver like rob said since i allready have a can laying around..
normally have no issues with tamiya, but the testors yellow i was looking at was too dark.. im still going to top coat with boyds alumina yellow pearl for the last round..
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Post by Tory on Mar 6, 2012 14:13:48 GMT -6
My experiance has been the best way to achieve a bright yellow is the get a good white base coat under it. But...the white has to be solid coverage, if its blotchy then the yellow will be blotchy. Yellow is a very transparent color and needs to be applied over a bright white base.
Red and orange can be problematic as well.
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Post by donculley on Mar 6, 2012 14:53:29 GMT -6
I use Krylon silver or Plastikote flat white as a base , for me ,I think it goes on better than spray primer. Usually I let the flats dry overnight, but the Krylon dries fast and you can usually go over it in about an hour.
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