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Post by rocketeer on Oct 5, 2008 21:19:44 GMT -6
Wow. Looks really sleek.
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Post by rocketeer on Oct 5, 2008 10:01:09 GMT -6
Good luck with the Bride; when I built mine the seams on her body were a stone-plated b**ch to fill! I also scribed some woodgrain into the table and painted it like wood.
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Post by rocketeer on Oct 2, 2008 7:30:06 GMT -6
That's got a lot of potential!
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 30, 2008 11:08:01 GMT -6
The Aurora #620 dune buggy is actually a model of a race car, the Baja Boot.
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 19, 2008 20:31:29 GMT -6
1. My Polar Lights Bride was molded in grey, with a few parts (lightning bolts) in glow. 2. I use grey during the sanding phases, then white as a final coat. I use Tamiya primers. In fact, here's a rundown of how I do figures that I posted here a while back: coffincorner.proboards89.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=7078&page=1#597693. Miiliput is great stuff. You can smooth it with a wet finger or brush. But be sure you mix (knead) it thoroughly, or you'll get soft uncured patches.
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 19, 2008 7:30:32 GMT -6
... is this another one lost to the ages with missing or damaged molds? I'd love to be able to build one myself! The molds were modified to "update" them (new wheels, carburetor, etc.) but those updated versions are easily available. There was a thread here just recently on doing the backdate to a Blue Beetle; a little searching ought to turn it up. Ah, here we go: coffincorner.proboards89.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=7011
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 18, 2008 10:21:02 GMT -6
I always thought that the blue that kit was molded in was the loveliest color on earth. Glad you decided not to paint it--looks really nice.
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 18, 2008 10:19:42 GMT -6
I sure admire your imagination!
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 18, 2008 10:18:17 GMT -6
Wow, very impressive, especially the engine--I envisage the engine expanding like a balloon when that turbo kicks in! I'm also impressed that you bothered to make a trunk compartment! One thing I wondered about was the use of plastic pins for the working steering links--don't you find that they're a bit fragile? I usually use brass, myself, just for the additional sturdiness.
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 18, 2008 10:12:17 GMT -6
Woo-hoo! Pointy bra, and that's the Ala Kart, too!
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 18, 2008 10:10:13 GMT -6
I repainted my SC Rambler model four times; the Tamiya clear was just barely compatible with the Fred Cady decals--the decals would shrink or wrinkle or split or whatever. Ended up ordering four sets of decals from FC, one at a time. I'm sure he wondered what the heck I was doing with them all!
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 15, 2008 21:00:40 GMT -6
Your wood looks really good. Some kind of sludge-wash-and-wipe process?
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 14, 2008 12:41:26 GMT -6
Could those brown arms with the cane be from the MPC Barnabas Collins kit?
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 14, 2008 12:37:59 GMT -6
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 14, 2008 12:36:23 GMT -6
Fascinating! I don't recognize it at all, and I thought I had a handle on most plastic horror kits. Are there any maker's marks under the base? Or perhaps inside the tombstone?
Something about it looks like the work of one of the lesser companies; Pyro or Hawk, perhaps?
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 14, 2008 10:57:32 GMT -6
This looks really promising! It looks like something Richard Carroll would've done!
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 14, 2008 10:55:50 GMT -6
Is that a real dog in photo #24? That stuff can be pretty hard on chrome...
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 12, 2008 6:58:59 GMT -6
The AMT Surf Woody (recently reissued) has the same chassis. Shouldn't be hard to find one.
I have a HHH grille and a few other parts you can have. PM me with your address.
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 7, 2008 21:49:10 GMT -6
Doesn't the Ghost use the same 16th scale chassis that Pyro put under their T-bucket, the Serpent, and the Sno-Skeeter?
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Post by rocketeer on Sept 3, 2008 7:28:17 GMT -6
Oh, those are snake heads! Duuuhhhhhh. I'm looking forward to seeing this one finished.
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 30, 2008 10:47:32 GMT -6
Now that is utterly charming!
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 26, 2008 7:12:00 GMT -6
Didn't they have a '58 Cadillac that was pretty nice? (Quick Google break) Yeah, that's them. Aside from a tricky fit of the windshield frame, it was a good kit that went together well and looked nice when done.
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 24, 2008 14:57:33 GMT -6
If worst comes to worst, you could use the Revell VW Beetle instructions to get you past the rough parts--the chassis is from the Beetle.
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 13, 2008 7:14:01 GMT -6
Nice work!
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 12, 2008 18:22:52 GMT -6
This is how I do figures: 1. Check fit of all parts, remove mold marks, etc, from mating surfaces. Try to get parts to fit as neatly together as you can. 2. Glue halves of legs, arms, torsos, etc together, using clothespins or other clamps to hold pieces firmly together. I use liquid cement, and I don't mind if a little glue squeezes out. 3. After allowing plenty of drying time, file seams as smooth as possible, then wet-sand seams with rough-ish (220 grit) sandpaper 4. Assemble parts into figure. This is the point at which I would make any pose changes. I usually repose figures by cutting the limb (or whatever) using my bandsaw, then fill the exposed hollow ends with Milliput (two-part epoxy putty) or casting resin. I then drill the Milliput and insert a brass wire, which I can bend to put the joint into any position I want. I then fill the cracks with Milliput, again smoothing it with wet fingers or tools. The better the shape you get when smoothing, the less sanding you have to do later, and I hate sanding. 5. Go over figure with magnifier goggles under a bright light, shining on the model from one side. Putty any gaps or seam lines with Milliput, smoothing with a wet finger. This would be the point at which I would re-scribe lines and restore textures (usually by "carving" the wet Milliput with a toothpick, then smoothing as necessary with a wet paintbrush). 6. Wet-sand. 7. Prime. I use Tamiya light grey primer, because it goes on thin and won't obscure detail. 8. Repeat the puttying. For big gaps use Milliput; for small gaps, you can use Mr. Surfacer, applied with a brush. I have heard that you can smooth (and remove excess) Mr. Surfacer with an alcohol-soaked Q-Tip, but haven't tried it myself. 9. When I'm happy with the figure, usually after three or four prime-putty-sand cycles, I give it a final coat of light grey primer, then a nice even coat or two of white primer (also Tamiya) to make a better base for fleshtones. Painting: 1. I airbrush an undercoat of flesh-colored Testors enamel on the bare skin areas. 2. Dullcoat 3. Then I use oil paints to do the flesh tones. Sometimes the paints don't cover as well as I could hope, so I do a second coat of oils. This also helps the brushstrokes go away. Before the oils dry, I go around the edges with a thinner-dampened brush to make sure no fleshtones intrude on the clothing areas. 4. Dullcoat again 5. Paint eyes, lips, eyebrows, then dullcoat again 6. Repeat the process for clothing, working from the skin outward: Socks, shirt, pants, coat. I can usually get away without putting on an enamel basecoat for clothing. I dullcoat frequently to protect the work I've done so far. 7. Paint hair last. On my last figure, after the hair had been painted, had dried, and been dullcoated, I went over the edges with a light wash of hair color to "blend" the hair into the skin and eliminate a harsh hairline.
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 12, 2008 17:53:46 GMT -6
my 2 favorite strippers are E.L.O. (easy lift off) made by POLLY 'S'. And the other is Lake Castrol.... Starry Eyes What Starry Eyes is referring to is Castrol SuperClean, which i believe is now sold as just SuperClean, available at auto parts stores. I've had good luck using it to strip enamels. For more stubborn paint, including Tamiya, I've used ScaleCoat Paint Remover, available at model train stores. The idea of using oven cleaner scares me to death. That's nasty stuff.
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49 Merc
Aug 11, 2008 19:57:01 GMT -6
Post by rocketeer on Aug 11, 2008 19:57:01 GMT -6
Man, what a beautiful color!
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 11, 2008 19:55:32 GMT -6
I found on mine that the belly wanted to drag on the ground. Watch out for that!
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 11, 2008 19:53:30 GMT -6
Thanks--this is all really interesting.
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Post by rocketeer on Aug 11, 2008 7:40:56 GMT -6
I like the idea of chrome plating the frame. Did you use Al-Clad, or send it off to one of the vacuum plating outfits?
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