Post by scotttansley on Jun 18, 2011 23:13:58 GMT -6
I got an email from one of you guy's about how I got a textured finish to my deals wheels models so I thought I might share that here. I know some of you wont agree with my methods and my opinions on enamels etc and this style of painting is not for everything but I hope you may gain something from this.
-------------------------------------------
Hey I can explain how I did the reddish tone on the van.
I'm using the same paints that you use to paint mini's and GamesWorkshop figures. Citadel, Vallego, reaper and regular artist acrylic for mixing skin tones. I always use automotive acrylic lacquers for gloss but my priming technique is different for car paint to stop it from melting the plastic.
First I prime with chaos black. I used two reds, Scab red and blood red and black.This is basically a dark and bright red. Its a layering method so thin the paint down like one drop red with 2 to 3 drops water. First coat was scab red with a tini bit of black thinned with water. Load the brush then wipe most of the paint off on the edge of your palette so your brush is wet with paint but not to loaded.
Then I start painting dark red leaving a fine line of the black primer where you would normally do a black-line shade. Your not mopping the paint on like you would do to do a wet coat of enamel. Its more like a sponge wipe if the sponge had been ringed out first. Each long stroke should be that thin that the first part of the stroke is dry by the time your at the end of the stroke. So I paint successive layers getting brighter and brighter as I move more away from the shaded area. I do this 2 or 3 times with each color mix. Going from dark red to light red by mixing scab red+black to scab red to scab red+blood red to blood red. Final highlights, high areas and where light would hit, is blood red+yellow. You'll end up with a quite chalky blend of color which needs to be glazed back a bit which also helps add depth and richness to the look. So once done I mix a watery glaze of blood red+future+water and paint this as a wet coat right across the whole area with a large flat brush. There is somewhere between 15 to 20 coats of these layers on this model done this way. Don't worry about ending up with a thick coat. These paints are incredibly thin. I mean 20 coats of this stuff is still thinner than one coat of Humbrol enamel. I hate and never use hobby enamels. They take ages to dry, are too thick and hide detail, have big surface tension which pulls them away from edges. They are just horrible to use in my opinion.
The final clear is wattyl estapol matt. Which gives a semi to matt finish. But I use many different types of clear depending I the level of gloss to matt I want. I often layer my matt to gloss finish to. For total matt I use testors dullcote. For glossing eyeballs I use tamiya clear gloss acrylic.
For the beige color I wet brushed about 4 coats of Bleached bone. Then painted highlights with a mix of bleached bone+skull white. The brownish tone edges are a wash. I use to mix my own washes with paint and inks and water and art mediums etc but now almost always use citadel washes. In this case it is a devlin mud wash.
I always use kolinsky sable brushes which are very expensive but very good. They have great spring back, hold paint well and most importantly they hold there tip for almost ever.
I also clean them with soap and conditioner regularly. My main figure painting brush is a Winsor & Newton series 7 size 3. I think it was $55 but has taken three years of hard work and is still like new. The soap/conditioner I use is "BJ's brush cleaner & preserver. But any brush soap from an art shop will be good. I also use Raphael kolinsky and have recently discovered the Spanish Escoda kolinsky's. These are awesome.
For skin tones I always mix. I'm using artist acrylics. I use Raw sienna, Burnt sienna, Red oxide and white.
I highly recommend getting a color wheel from the art shop. Its indispensable for mixing color. In fact I get almost all my hobby supplies from art shop not hobby shop.
This kind of painting is quite hard work but is worth the effort and looks much richer and deeper and nicer than just airbrushing a color with clear gloss on top. Spraying one color on full-size car looks good but on a scale model looks very flat and toy like. Look at a car close up and its very glossy. Look at it from a hundred yards and its less glossy with shading and highlights. This is what we want to paint.
One other great and in my opinion essential reason to always prime with black is it removes any opacity from the plastic. Ive seen many good gloss paint-jobs on car models where light can still pass through the surface. This makes it look like a plastic toy and is horrible. Even if your painting yellow still prime with black then airbrush some white over that. Leaving some black in the crevices when spraying the white will help pre-shade the model.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Scott.
-------------------------------------------
Hey I can explain how I did the reddish tone on the van.
I'm using the same paints that you use to paint mini's and GamesWorkshop figures. Citadel, Vallego, reaper and regular artist acrylic for mixing skin tones. I always use automotive acrylic lacquers for gloss but my priming technique is different for car paint to stop it from melting the plastic.
First I prime with chaos black. I used two reds, Scab red and blood red and black.This is basically a dark and bright red. Its a layering method so thin the paint down like one drop red with 2 to 3 drops water. First coat was scab red with a tini bit of black thinned with water. Load the brush then wipe most of the paint off on the edge of your palette so your brush is wet with paint but not to loaded.
Then I start painting dark red leaving a fine line of the black primer where you would normally do a black-line shade. Your not mopping the paint on like you would do to do a wet coat of enamel. Its more like a sponge wipe if the sponge had been ringed out first. Each long stroke should be that thin that the first part of the stroke is dry by the time your at the end of the stroke. So I paint successive layers getting brighter and brighter as I move more away from the shaded area. I do this 2 or 3 times with each color mix. Going from dark red to light red by mixing scab red+black to scab red to scab red+blood red to blood red. Final highlights, high areas and where light would hit, is blood red+yellow. You'll end up with a quite chalky blend of color which needs to be glazed back a bit which also helps add depth and richness to the look. So once done I mix a watery glaze of blood red+future+water and paint this as a wet coat right across the whole area with a large flat brush. There is somewhere between 15 to 20 coats of these layers on this model done this way. Don't worry about ending up with a thick coat. These paints are incredibly thin. I mean 20 coats of this stuff is still thinner than one coat of Humbrol enamel. I hate and never use hobby enamels. They take ages to dry, are too thick and hide detail, have big surface tension which pulls them away from edges. They are just horrible to use in my opinion.
The final clear is wattyl estapol matt. Which gives a semi to matt finish. But I use many different types of clear depending I the level of gloss to matt I want. I often layer my matt to gloss finish to. For total matt I use testors dullcote. For glossing eyeballs I use tamiya clear gloss acrylic.
For the beige color I wet brushed about 4 coats of Bleached bone. Then painted highlights with a mix of bleached bone+skull white. The brownish tone edges are a wash. I use to mix my own washes with paint and inks and water and art mediums etc but now almost always use citadel washes. In this case it is a devlin mud wash.
I always use kolinsky sable brushes which are very expensive but very good. They have great spring back, hold paint well and most importantly they hold there tip for almost ever.
I also clean them with soap and conditioner regularly. My main figure painting brush is a Winsor & Newton series 7 size 3. I think it was $55 but has taken three years of hard work and is still like new. The soap/conditioner I use is "BJ's brush cleaner & preserver. But any brush soap from an art shop will be good. I also use Raphael kolinsky and have recently discovered the Spanish Escoda kolinsky's. These are awesome.
For skin tones I always mix. I'm using artist acrylics. I use Raw sienna, Burnt sienna, Red oxide and white.
I highly recommend getting a color wheel from the art shop. Its indispensable for mixing color. In fact I get almost all my hobby supplies from art shop not hobby shop.
This kind of painting is quite hard work but is worth the effort and looks much richer and deeper and nicer than just airbrushing a color with clear gloss on top. Spraying one color on full-size car looks good but on a scale model looks very flat and toy like. Look at a car close up and its very glossy. Look at it from a hundred yards and its less glossy with shading and highlights. This is what we want to paint.
One other great and in my opinion essential reason to always prime with black is it removes any opacity from the plastic. Ive seen many good gloss paint-jobs on car models where light can still pass through the surface. This makes it look like a plastic toy and is horrible. Even if your painting yellow still prime with black then airbrush some white over that. Leaving some black in the crevices when spraying the white will help pre-shade the model.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Scott.
