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Post by TooOld on Jan 18, 2017 9:18:33 GMT -6
Picked up this glue bomb really really cheap and just received it yesterday . It's complete except for the windshield , headlight lenses , and rear license plate , so those shouldn't be a problem . The problem is that it's really a "Gluebomb" with lots of glue , mainly the chassis parts and the side exhaust . . . which is really glued to the running boards ! It's also a bit moldy .    I would normally wait and put this on my "To Do" list , but since my unbuilt Boss A Bone is already there I've decided to get started on this restoration right away . If it's too far gone I'll keep it for parts and build this one !   |
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Post by donculley on Jan 18, 2017 12:41:52 GMT -6
Nice score - Restore it , theres not too many of these around and we know you can do it !!!!!!!
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Post by TooOld on Jan 18, 2017 16:38:24 GMT -6
Nice score - Restore it , theres not too many of these around and we know you can do it !!!!!!! Thanks Don ! It's already disassembled and in the stripper . Not any worse than others I've taken apart , main thing is those sidepipes came off of the running borders with a nice "POP" , no real damage to them at all . The bed and tailgate were difficult and were damaged but should be repairable . Sorry I forgot to take any photos . |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2017 18:11:45 GMT -6
Yet another Classic build hey Brother Bob!
Looking forward to it...
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Post by Bert on Jan 18, 2017 19:59:31 GMT -6
Aw hell! Quit complaining you got a great kit cheap and it's in the right hands for restoration. I look forward to seeing it finished. 😆😉
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Post by TooOld on Jan 19, 2017 6:40:16 GMT -6
Aw hell! Quit complaining you got a great kit cheap and it's in the right hands for restoration. I look forward to seeing it finished. 😆😉 No more complaining ! |
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Post by TooOld on Jan 20, 2017 15:06:37 GMT -6
Parts came out of the stripper yesterday and I've been doing some cleanup . Not too bad , just the normal broken axles and rear spring .  The engine is one solid piece of plastic which is fine since it all gets chromed except for the block . Also the interior bucket and the firewall are never coming out ! Also not a problem .  Some major damage to the pickup bed , there was just no way to cut it loose ! I can fix it .   The damaged piece was cut from the fender with a razor saw .  Here it is just held in place . . .  . . . and after some liquid cement is brushed onto the backside .  A little more work and nobody will ever know !  |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2017 15:37:33 GMT -6
You got this Brother Bob!
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Post by TooOld on Jan 22, 2017 11:12:23 GMT -6
You got this Brother Bob! Thanks Bill ! |
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Post by TooOld on Jan 22, 2017 11:27:33 GMT -6
To fill the small divots in the damaged area I'm using some small scrapings of red plastic , taken from an inconspicuous spot . The piece you see in the mixing cup is just so you can see it . I'll actually be using pieces much smaller , just large enough to fill the damaged spots . A little MEK won't dissolve the plastic like acetone , but will soften it and make it very sticky .  The softened plastic is then pressed into the divot with a craft stick . A little MEK is also brushed over the entire area and it's also pressed lightly with the stick . The entire area is then sanded using progressively finer sanding sticks .  Here's a before and after of the first repair . I'll repeat this for the other two spots that need to be filled .  I've checked the fit of the bed to the fenders , and also started polishing the parts . Still a long way to go !  |
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Post by Bert on Jan 23, 2017 20:47:19 GMT -6
Thanks for the MEK tip. I'm going to try it.
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Post by TooOld on Jan 24, 2017 6:46:31 GMT -6
OK.....You have gone and done it, how many have you done/started? There is one on my shelf that has patiently been waiting for me to "get around to it". Now I have to with the inspiration you've provided Thank You Bob! Any time . Maybe it's time to "get around to it" ! |
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Post by TooOld on Jan 24, 2017 6:48:48 GMT -6
Thanks for the MEK tip. I'm going to try it. Not prefect but it works pretty good for small holes . I still like to melt the plastic with acetone for filling larger areas but it doesn't seem to work very well with colored plastic . |
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Post by TooOld on Jan 25, 2017 10:43:49 GMT -6
I had a little time yesterday so I played with the seats . Of course the mounts were snapped off , but since these had round mounts instead of square the fix was easy ! Simply drill out the seats about 1/16 inch deep and they fit right back onto the broken posts in the bucket .  The frame and body parts are all polished and sprayed with one light coat of clear .   Homemade decals went in the bed before it was cleared .  Here's a closer look at my plastic repair . . . I doubt anyone will see it unless it's pointed out to them . 
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Post by 41chevy on Jan 25, 2017 11:37:48 GMT -6
To fill the small divots in the damaged area I'm using some small scrapings of red plastic , taken from an inconspicuous spot . The piece you see in the mixing cup is just so you can see it . I'll actually be using pieces much smaller , just large enough to fill the damaged spots . A little MEK won't dissolve the plastic like acetone , but will soften it and make it very sticky . The softened plastic is then pressed into the divot with a craft stick . A little MEK is also brushed over the entire area and it's also pressed lightly with the stick . The entire area is then sanded using progressively finer sanding sticks . Here's a before and after of the first repair . I'll repeat this for the other two spots that need to be filled . I've checked the fit of the bed to the fenders , and also started polishing the parts . Still a long way to go ! How long does it take for the MEK to dry? Is it like say 10X glue? I've always heard of using MEK or Acetone to glue styrene but never saw anyone who used it. Paul |
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Post by TooOld on Jan 25, 2017 17:31:11 GMT -6
How long does it take for the MEK to dry? Is it like say 10X glue? I've always heard of using MEK or Acetone to glue styrene but never saw anyone who used it. Paul I don't know about the 10X (Tenax ?) glue but MEK is slow drying , while acetone evaporates rather quick . When I placed the softened plastic into the hole I had several minutes to mash it and work it in with a stick . It was probably sandable in 15-20 minutes . |
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Post by 41chevy on Jan 26, 2017 10:43:01 GMT -6
Yep Tenax. The dry rates are what I was curious about. The Acetone is thge one I'm going to try for long runs like trailer boxes. Thanks, Paul
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Post by TooOld on Feb 20, 2017 11:00:26 GMT -6
Finally back at it !! Time to work on the suspension , starting with front poseable steering . The backing plate on the right was still glued to the axle , but a little persuasion with an xacto and it came right off without breaking !  These parts are the same as the Blue Bandit (and Bandito) so it's just a matter of drilling some holes .  The last step is to use a small file and shape the ends of the axle so there's no interference when the wheels are turned .  Finished axle . All that's left is to cut the pins to length .  In the rear I decided to glue the broken spring back to the axle and paint it as a unit . I also drilled and glued some round rod to locate the backing plates .  The only other mods I made are drilling out the horn and the sidepipes .  I also sanded the tires . As is normal they're a bit out of shape , I think shrinkage over the years is what causes this .  About all that's left is to prep the parts and paint them . Stay tuned ! |
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Post by Dennis M on Feb 20, 2017 18:50:41 GMT -6
Great job Bob.
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Post by patw on Feb 22, 2017 8:21:23 GMT -6
Super job Bob! I like how your doing this up.
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Post by TooOld on Feb 22, 2017 13:16:40 GMT -6
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Post by TooOld on Feb 22, 2017 13:16:53 GMT -6
Super job Bob! I like how your doing this up. Thanks Pat ! |
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Post by TooOld on Feb 22, 2017 13:20:09 GMT -6
It's raining this morning so no painting today , time to deal with a couple of small items . First is the top . Somebody did a real number gluing in that rear window ! It came out but it's still a mess .  I cleaned up the window opening then taped off the rear panel so it could be sanded without damaging the sides of the top .  After sanding and polishing it looks good . Luckily the top was molded without any grain or texture , it's just smooth plastic . It will get a coat of clear so it all matches then a coat of Dull-Cote for the look of vinyl .  I was going to use epoxy this time to make headlight lenses but decided to try the casting resin again . 8 drops of catalyst in 1/4 ounce of resin (give or take) , and I heated the mold for 2 minutes in a microwave . An hour later they appear to be hardened , not sticky at all . I'm still going to wait until morning to take the lenses out of the mold just to make sure .  I found the old windshield in my parts box to use as a template for making a new one . |
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Post by Dennis M on Feb 22, 2017 14:18:55 GMT -6
Thank you for sharing with us Bob. I have to try that.
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Post by 41chevy on Feb 24, 2017 11:39:10 GMT -6
Great work on the top.
Question on the heating of the mold, what wattage is the microwave you use? I imagine the higher or lower wattage rating will affect the mold?
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Post by TooOld on Feb 25, 2017 7:15:32 GMT -6
Thank you for sharing with us Bob. I have to try that. Thanks ! |
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Post by TooOld on Feb 25, 2017 7:19:32 GMT -6
Great work on the top. Question on the heating of the mold, what wattage is the microwave you use? I imagine the higher or lower wattage rating will affect the mold? Actually I haven't a clue ! My microwave is 25 years old and all I do is push the time and start buttons , never used the high or low settings .  Seriously , the silicone mold doesn't seem to absorb the heat from the microwave . I tried one minute then two minutes , and it was just warm to the touch . Next time I'll pull out my trusty old toaster oven ! |
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Post by 41chevy on Feb 25, 2017 9:41:19 GMT -6
I'll be trying this next week with my Big Al engine molds. Thanks
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Post by rocketeer on Feb 25, 2017 10:23:02 GMT -6
I've noticed that temperature seems to make a big difference when casting clear epoxy. Once the ambient temperature gets up above 75F or so, the resin seems to set up nice and hard; much below that, and it seems to stay sticky forever.
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Post by TooOld on Feb 26, 2017 9:39:00 GMT -6
I've noticed that temperature seems to make a big difference when casting clear epoxy. Once the ambient temperature gets up above 75F or so, the resin seems to set up nice and hard; much below that, and it seems to stay sticky forever. Absolutely correct . In fact you shouldn't do any body work using fillers or fiberglass resins when the ambient temp is below 72 degrees , the same with mixing epoxies . During the winter months it would get pretty cold in the shop and it would take forever for fillers to harden . But in the summer when it was 95+ in the shop you would literally have less than a minute after mixing before it started to harden . Some guys get pretty fast at applying body filler ! |
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